Ever
since fellow blogger and fervent Disney investor Joshua Kennon wrote with
praise about his visit, I have wanted to go to the Yachtsman Steakhouse. This
restaurant, which opens only for dinner, is located within the Yacht Club
Resort, in the Epcot area of Walt Disney World.
Because I
am local to the area, I have been around Epcot a few times, yet it required the
use of my faithful GPS to arrive at the place.
The resort is themed as a typical Maine yacht club. The entrance to the restaurant is not
grandiose, and the décor and general ambiance are quite unassuming, yet the
quality of the food offered is prime, and the service efficient. One can hardly expect this to be a high-end
restaurant by its looks, especially by the way the clientele dresses (I think
Disney should emphasize the importance of dress code even more for this place).
When I arrived I was asked to wait for a
few minutes while my table was getting ready in an area facing a frigorific with
prime cuts of meat aged to improve flavor.
If I wasn’t very hungry at the time, the view certainly woke up my taste
buds.
My first choice was an aperitif plate of a
most excellent charcuterie. The
selection consisted of a bacon-wrapped
boar terrine, which was cooked to perfection with pieces of aged Gouda,
dried cherries and pistachios. It was
flavored with ginger, mace and clove, which gave the terrine a unique balance
of sweet and savory, all wrapped in heavenly smoked bacon.
There was
also a truffled sucling pig pie, very
much as it is traditional in England, baked in pastry and served with little
cubes of port gelée. The gelée homogenized
the dish together within the mouth, providing the perfect measure of flavor,
whilst each and every component could still be identified. Perhaps my favorite was the warm lardo toast, served on sourdough
and garnished with arugula, pickled onions and parmesan shavings. Lardo
is an Italian specialty, where the fat of the pig is hand-rubbed with salt and
cured with spices (in this case peppercorns and rosemary), and then aged. The Yachtsman’s ages theirs for 2 months, and
the result is the best lardo you would try out of Italy.
The Spanish style chorizo had large chunks
of pork, heavily spiced with pimentón (sweet Spanish paprika), garlic and
cumin, and reminded me of the likes of my mother, who always had some at hand
to snack on. The one thing I did not
find it quite belonged on this selection was the beef merguez sausage, an African specialty which is not really
charcuterie (charcuterie to me is always pork, pork and more pork). Yet everything else was so good, it did not
deter to the excellency of the dish. Grainy mustard and pickles were succinctly
placed as accompaniments, as well as the warm bread basket and butter with
roasted garlic to make a proper amuse-bouche. I chose a dark ale to wash down all that
amazing goodness!
The
bread basket comes with a slab of salted butter and half a roasted garlic.
It was perfect to pair with the charcuterie
plate. |
Since this is a steakhouse, the main
course was, of course, steak. The menu
offers several prime cuts at an also very prime price. I went for the biggest one, a 16 oz. Boneless Rib-Eye, perfectly
charbroiled to medium-rare. It was
topped with a touch of Point Reyes blue cheese butter and served with a halved
bone with richly exposed marrow which, in turn, could be perfectly sucked up by
imbibing the sweet brioche herbed roll it came with. Very few times I have had meat this good, and
so well accompanied and perfectly served.
It was undoubtedly a succulent dish, yet it was not heavy. The waiter poured me a glass of Château Aney Cabernet, but there are
also exclusive wines like Caymus to accompany the excellent cuts of meat
served. I chose this light red that was more
herbal than fruity, somewhat creamy and quite unobtrusive to the flavors of the
meat.
The desserts are presented as a composite. I tried two.
The apple profiterole had no
sugar added, and it was light and fruity and everything a dainty dessert should
be. The profiterole had the texture
almost of a macaroon, with a floral apple mousse inside. It was surrounded with caramel apple crunch,
alongside a quenelle of chopped rosy apple and a tuille made out of Cheddar
cheese. The latter provided the cheese
note to the end of a heavy meal, without actually having eaten any cheese. Small drops of chocolate and raspberry sauces
framed the dish as in a painting.
My second choice just had to include some
chocolate, particularly after such a rich meal. Again, a perfectly light
dessert of a single rectangular slice of chocolate cheesecake, topped with
chocolate ganache and accompanied by a purée of Asian pears and a quenelle of
butter walnut ice-cream.
Undoubtedly, the Yachtsman’s Steakhouse is
a restaurant to talk about. The service is
quite competent. Waiters recommend dishes
diligently and they know how to pour wine to taste it first. One can tell they are gourmets themselves. You should take anyone there who you want to
impress, but also knows how to savor the indulgences of a good meal. I cannot overemphasize reservations, which
should be made well in advance. You won’t
get in otherwise.
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